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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

An Evening at Daniel

After reading Ruth Reichl's Garlic and Sapphires, The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise, it was apparent that I needed to start a new list of restaurants to survey in the city.  Though the book reviews restaurants ranging from one of the finest sushi places in New York City, Kuruma Zushi, to Le Cirque, clearly at the top of my list stood Daniel. Though a brief blog post of my experience at such a place could never compare to Reichl's review, (I apologize, I am just not as eloquent) it is certainly worth an attempt.

If I could describe my 4 hours spent at Daniel in one word, it would be "exquisite".  While Boulud's flagship, which opened in 1993, currently ranks 8th in the world, there is little doubt that it is currently in first place for me, and likely will be for years to come.  In addition to it's world class standing, it was also deemed Best Restaurant of 2010 by the James Beard Foundation.  Such awards are of little surprise after spending a night at Daniel.  The Executive Chef, Jean François Bruel, began working with Boulud in 1996 as a "Chef de Partie".  Since then, he has held positions as the Sous Chef at Café Boulud and the Executive Chef at DB Bistro Moderne.  Bruel returned to Daniel in 2003 as the Executive Chef.  Also notable, was his recognition as the James Beard Foundation's winner of the Rising Star Chef award in 2002.  His experience and magnificence as a Chef is definitely revealed in every dish that comes out of the kitchen at Daniel.

I was fortunate to make an almost unimaginable reservation for 2 at 8:30 on a recent Wednesday evening.  Upon arriving at the Bar, I knew I was in for quite a treat.  While waiting for our table, we enjoyed a glass of Rosé Champagne.  We were then escorted to our table in the middle of an amazing dining room.  Though renovated in 2008, I would agree with Reichl that, "The drama of the flower arrangements dominates the restaurant, transforming a bland beige room into a place with personality".   Also beautiful are the custom designed Bernardaud chandeliers, made of Limoges porcelain tiles, which were added by designer Adam Tihany. 

The service was nothing less than impeccable.  Our waitress was friendly, knowledgeable and eager to make sure our night was divine.  Not willing to pass up the six course tasting menu and wine pairing, though unwilling to forgo the Trio of Quebec Suckling Pig, our waitress kindly incorporated it into the meal.

Not much has changed since Reichl's 1994 review, where she states that "Mr. Boulud [sic] offers a changing celebration of the seasons: daily specials that depend on little more than great ingredients."  While every bite seemed to be better than the last, I particularly enjoyed the Chorizo Crusted Scallops, as well as the Gorgonzola Tortelloni.  Additionally, the pork belly that came with the Trio of Suckling Pig was incredible.  I am not sure if I will ever forget how it melted in my mouth, nor do I want to.  The menu played with seasonal ingredients in a way that left me wishing it was Summer at Daniel year round, though, I can only dream of what the Fall might bring.

Daniel is truly a dining experience that will change the way you view the culinary arts.  No one could say it better than Ruth Reichl did in her four-star review...
"...The restaurant is so exciting that you wake up the morning after a meal at Daniel eager to remember every bite."
DUCK TERRINE WITH CHAMPAGNE MANGO
Sicilian Pistachios, Sauternes Gelee, Young Salad
Tartar with North Star Caviar, Poached with White Wine Gelee
or
QUAIL AND BLACK TRUMPET BALLOTINE
Plum Mostarda, Satur Farms Vegetable Salad
Von Heddesdorff, Reisling Kabinett "Winninger Uhlen", Mosel, Germany 2008

. . . . . . .
TRIO OF SPANISH MACKEREL
Warm with Cumin, Carrot Mousseline
Tartar with North Star Caviar, Poached with White Wine Gelee
 Sweet Pepper Coulis
or
PEEKYTOE CRAB SALAD PERSIAN CUCUMBER
Black Sesame Coulis, Early Mesclun, Radishes
Domaine Bailly, Sancerre Chavignol, Loire 2009

. . . . . . .

HAZELNUT AND CHORIZO CRUSTED
MAINE SEA SCALLOPS
Stewed Gnocchi, Corn Fricassée, Nasturtium Salad
or
GORGONZOLA AND MESCLUN TORTELLONI
Tomato Confit, Caramelized Walnuts
 Capers, Snow Peas
Domaine Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis, Burgundy 2001

. . . . . . .

SLOW BAKED NOVA SCOTIA HALIBUT
With Chanterelles, Yukon Potato Quiche
Tuscan Kale, Oregano Jus
Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon Rose "Chataignier", Rhone 2009
or
BLACK SEA BASS WITH SYRAH SAUCE
Leek Potato Parmentier, Roasted Tempura Celery
Copain Tous Ensemble Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley 2008

. . . . . . .

ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB LOIN
Tandoori Spiced Shoulder, Minted Ratatouille
Ricotta Gnocchi, Broccolini
 Zucchini Flower Tempura
or
DUO OF BEEF
Black Angus Short Ribs with Young Spinach, Mozzarella-Bresaola Salad
Wagyu Tenderloin, Stuffed Tomato with Basil
Black Garlic Pommes Dauphine, Sauce Choron
Bosquet des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Grenache, Rhone 2001

. . . . . . .
COCONUT LEMONGRASS SOUP
Mango-Thai Basil
Gelée, Poached Pineapple, Coconut Rum Sorbet
Chateau Pajzos, Tokaji 5 Puttonyos, Hungary 2000
or
WARM GUANAJA CHOCOLATE COULANT
Liquid Caramel, Fleur de Sel, Milk Sorbet
Rivesaltes Domaine de Rancy 4 Ans, Roussillon

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