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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

This Little Piggy Ponders: Restaurant critics stare into the abyss

Food for Thought:  Francis Lam of Salon wrote a thought provoking piece yesterday titled, Restaurant critics stare into the abyss, touching on the topic of food critics in the 21st century.  Have websites like yelp and the million other food-focused blogs that exist belittled or diminished the presence and importance of the established restaurant critic?  The fabulous Mitchell Davis, VP of the James Beard Foundation, states in the article,
"We have a very different relationship to authority. In the 1960s, Craig Claiborne [the New York Times' first critic] could 'educate' his readers. But now we're a bit different. We're democratizing everything. If anyone can be president, why can't we all be critics?"
Davis concludes that the "traditional reviews written with an adherence to journalistic ethics seem more trustworthy" and continue to be what restaurants strive for when being assessed.  I must say, I agree.  Take Ruth Reichl's Garlic & Sapphires, for example.  While anyone can write a review of Daniel, Reichl is able to do so with a prose and reputable knowledge that is incomparable.  Everyone can write a review, not everyone can make a piece of art.  Thanks to all the restaurant critics out there! Oink oink!

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